This post describes my installation of a new connector on the ignition sensor (bean can) of my ’84 R100RS.
I disconnected my ignition sensor in order to move the wiring clear to make it easier to install a new diode board. In this process, I discovered that the connector was cracked. I had hoped I might simply repair the connector by sealing or gluing it, but as I handled the connector it began to crumble. I removed the ignition sensor and disassembled it to get a better view to my best options for repair. It quickly became apparent that my best option was to overhaul the ignition trigger and install a new connector.
The first step was to identify this three-way male connector. It’s called a “Junior Power Timer” or JPT. Additionally, its also sometimes prefixed as an AMP or BOSCH – perhaps because both manufacturers made versions of this connector. A 2-way version of the JPT connector is used on some fuel injectors – such as the ones on my ’87 K100RS.
While not quite qualifying as “nerdy stuff” – here’s more than you might want to know about Timer connectors: Timer Product Overview
The female JPT connector has a wire clip that keeps the two halves securely together. A newer style female connector has the wire clip designed for easier removal and installation – but is does make the connector somewhat bulkier. As the ignition sensor has a male connector, that difference doesn’t matter to me here.
After disassembling the ignition sensor I discovered that the wires from the connector were permanently affixed to the hall effect sensor. My only choices were to either replace the entire hall effect sensor which typically comes with a new connector or remove and replace the connector. It seemed easy enough to order and install a new connector – and much, much less expensive.
I bought a new connector from Euro Motoelectrics which came as package of both the male and female connectors. While the new male connector connects perfectly to the old style female connector on my bike’s wiring harness, the rubber boot provided is wrong for this application. It has openings for three wires. A boot with a single opening would have been preferred. I used “liquid electrical tape” to seal the two unused boot openings and the center opening.
The first step was to record where each color wire was in the old connector. The second step was to remove the connector from the wiring. This connector was permanently bonded to the wiring, so the easiest method to remove it was to simply crush it.
I wanted to preserve as much wire length as possible, and considered prying open the crimps of the old terminals – but that proved too difficult. So I simply cut off the old terminals, and cut away enough of the cable sheathing to allow the three wires to fit properly into the connector. It took two o-ring picks to hold the center opening of the boot to get the wire through it.
Crimping on the new terminals was easy using a standard crimping tool. It wasn’t too clear where the little yellow “boots” were suppose to go – they seemed to be designed to seal the wires as they exited the hosing of the connector, but these wires are too small to allow them to make an effective seal. I decided to simply place them over the crimps – just to have a place to put them.
The terminal’s retaining “barbs” easily clicked into place within the connector housing.
After seating the boot over the connector, all that remained was to seal the openings on the boot with liquid tape.